Eva Sviridova
← Selected projects

SXEMA × Mercury · 2022–2023

Mercury / 404wear

How can reviewing garment construction in 3D help us prepare for the first physical sample?

Digital prototype: the 404wear vest.
Digital prototype: the 404wear vest.
The physical vest, worn in the collection shoot.
The physical vest, worn in the collection shoot.
My role
Workflow concept, hands-on pattern making and 3D prototyping; art direction and production
Team contribution
Additional designers applied the tested workflow to other styles under my direction
Outcome
Four physical garments and their digital prototypes

Question

Could we resolve construction decisions in 3D before commissioning physical samples? For Mercury, SXEMA developed a T-shirt, hoodie, cargo trousers and vest, using digital prototypes for the client’s review.

My role and collaborators

I conceived the workflow and tested it myself on one style from start to finish. I drafted the patterns in GRAFIS, made an avatar in Blender matching the measurements of the real model, and brought them into CLO to check the garment. With several styles to develop, I then brought in additional team members to apply the same approach to the remaining pieces.

Experiment: digital review before sewing

In CLO, I adjusted material properties, including fabric stiffness, stretch and padding, to approximate the intended garments and review fit and construction. We sent the digitally checked patterns and technical files to the factory in China. The paired images above show the digital vest and the physical result.

Result and limitation

The factory made physical prototypes and photographed them on a model. We approved the samples from those photographs and commissioned the production batch without shipping the prototypes to Moscow. The finished garments matched our expectations. The workflow still relied on a factory-made sample to confirm the digital decisions.

The open research question is which construction and material assumptions a creator needs to understand before trusting a digital preview.

Hoodie: silhouette, trim and graphic placement.
Hoodie: silhouette, trim and graphic placement.
Cargo trousers: volume, pockets and straps.
Cargo trousers: volume, pockets and straps.
At work: creating 3D clothing
At work: creating 3D clothing.
Original post on Instagram ↗
Developing the Mercury digital collection
From digital prototypes to the approved collection.
Original post on Instagram ↗
Developing and testing garments in 3D. Original post
Digital looks from the Mercury collection. Original post

AR as a presentation format

We reused the digital garments in ZERO10 camera-based try-on filters so remote team members could view and discuss the looks. The AR versions extended the collection into an interactive presentation format.

Related project image
INSTAGRAM

Demonstrating the 404wear vest in augmented reality

If Instagram is unavailable, use the original post link below.

SXEMA’s AR try-on demonstration · 9 June 2023. Watch the video ↗
Related project image
INSTAGRAM

ZERO10 release announcement featuring SXEMA cargo trousers

If Instagram is unavailable, use the original post link below.

ZERO10’s community release featuring the collection. View the platform announcement ↗

The physical collection

The T-shirt and cargo trousers worn together.
The T-shirt and cargo trousers worn together.
The physical hoodie in the catalogue shoot.
The physical hoodie in the catalogue shoot.
Cargo construction and strap details.
Cargo construction and strap details.
From this experiment to the next question · Research proposal

From Body to Pattern ↗

Sources and documentation

3D garment development · Studio process ↗

Mercury collection · Digital prototypes ↗

Garment development and testing · Film ↗

Digital collection · Film ↗

404wear vest · ZERO10 AR try-on ↗

SXEMA cargo trousers · ZERO10 release ↗